Tag: 2020

Tafel Tuesday #8: Carrot Butter-poached Halibut

Here’s another great recipe from the James Beard award winning, Gabriel Rucker. This one I pulled from his cookbook Le Pigeon: Cooking at the Dirty Bird.

As we’ve already had carrots, fennel, and a lot of vegetables you can blow them off from this dish.

Carrot Butter-poached Halibut, Anchovy-roasted Carrots, Fennel

One of our first (and most successful) fish items was halibut poached in carrot butter. We really wanted to include that recipe in this book, but we couldn’t remember what we originally served it with. So we experimented, and fennel came up the winner. After all of our experimentation, we decided we loved this new recipe so much that we ran it on the menu for a week and it has become a new staple. (SERVES 4)

2 pounds (900 g) small carrots, with tops
3½ cups (875 g) unsalted butter
3 anchovy fillets, minced

3 lemons Kosher salt 2 cups (500 ml)
fresh carrot juice 3 cloves garlic, crushed, plus 1 whole clove garlic
1 bay leaf
Zest of 1 orange
¼ cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
4 halibut fillets, each about 6 ounces (185 g)
Maldon flake salt

Fennel Salad
1 fennel bulb, sliced ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick using a mandoline
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons chopped chives
1 tablespoon chopped white anchovies (boquerones)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C).

  2. Remove the carrot tops, wash, and set aside. Peel the carrots and halve them lengthwise. In a sauté pan over medium heat, melt ½ cup (125 g) of the butter with the anchovies and the grated zest from two of the lemons. Add the carrots and season with kosher salt. Transfer to a baking sheet, spread in a single layer, and roast in the oven until slightly softened but still a little crunchy, about 12 minutes. Remove from oven and toss with the juice of one lemon.

  3. In a shallow sauté pan over medium heat, combine the carrot juice, the crushed garlic, bay leaf, and orange zest. Cook until reduced by three-quarters, about 10 minutes. Add the remaining 3 cups (750 g) butter and stir until melted, then reduce the heat to very low and keep warm.

  4. Next we’re going to buzz our carrot top pesto. Simply combine the carrot tops, the whole clove garlic, the olive oil, the juice of one lemon, and a pinch of kosher salt in a blender and blend until you have a fine pesto consistency. Set aside.

  5. To make the fennel salad, in a bowl combine the fennel, olive oil, chives, and anchovies and season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.

  6. Now, to poach the fish. Heat the carrot butter to 130°F (55°C) over low heat. Season the halibut with kosher salt and add the fish to the butter. Keeping the butter at 130°F (55°C), poach the halibut until you can press down on the fish with a fork and don’t feel a pop (that pop is connective tissue that hasn’t yet broken down), about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spatula, transfer the halibut to a plate lined with paper towels. Squeeze the juice of the third lemon over the fish and sprinkle with Maldon salt.

  7. To serve, place roasted carrots in the center of four shallow bowls and top each with a halibut fillet. Top each halibut fillet with the fennel salad. Drizzle the pesto around the fish, spoon a tablespoon of carrot butter over each plate, and serve.


Wine pairing. 2017 R. Dubois & Fils Hautes-Cote De Nuit White Burgundy

Tafel Tuesday #7: Spicy Watermelon Sorbet

One more palate cleanser before we get into the heavy heavies.

Spicy Watermelon Sorbet
via Nieve de Sandía Picosita

In Mexico, a very popular street snack is cut-up fresh fruit sprinkled with salt, ground chiles, and lime juice. Watermelon, mango, orange, and pineapple are the most common. Cucumber and jicama are served this way too. Fruit sorbets are often flavored with the same seasonings, but this refreshing watermelon sorbet uses fresh green chiles, not ground chiles, for spiciness.

I like this sorbet with the melon seeds mixed in, as seeing them in there makes me feel as though I’m taking bites of the fresh fruit. But it’s surprising to me that it’s so difficult to find watermelons with seeds in the United States. You can use seedless watermelon, of course — the sorbet will still taste amazing.

MAKES ABOUT 1½ QUARTS
6 cups cubed watermelon (about 2 pounds; see Note)
¾ cup sugar
3 tablespoons light corn syrup
Juice of 2 limes
2 serrano chiles, or 1 small jalapeño chile, coarsely chopped, with seeds
1 teaspoon salt
Pinch of ground piquín chile, plus more to taste (optional)
Salted ground chiles, for sprinkling (optional, look for Tajin brand)

In a blender, combine the watermelon, sugar, corn syrup, lime juice, chopped chiles, salt, and piquín chile. Puree until smooth. Taste and, if desired, add more piquín chile. Pour into a container, cover, and refrigerate until cold, at least 2 hours or up to overnight.

Freeze and churn in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. When the sorbet has finished churning, mix in the reserved watermelon seeds (if using). For a soft consistency, serve the sorbet right away; for a firmer consistency, transfer it to a container, cover, and allow to harden in the freezer for 2 to 3 hours. Serve sprinkled with salted ground chiles, if desired.

Note: If you are using watermelon with seeds and would like to add the seeds to the sorbet, remove the seeds before cutting the melon into cubes, and then mix them in after churning the sorbet. If the seeds are simply left in the flesh, they will break down when the melon is pureed.

Warhol Wednesday: “Minnesoter”

We went dark yesterday in support of the #stophateforprofit campaign. A day late, but we still want to welcome you to a 2nd edition of Warhol Wednesday. In case you missed it, we’ll be bringing you a never-ending LIVE album for a one-time fee of $10. Every week, you’ll receive an exclusive download to a new live song from a past performance in a different city.

Today, we take a trip back to Minneapolis where we performed “Minnesoter” at First Ave on May 12, 2019. Let us know if you were at the show! Available now at HERE.

Tafel Tuesday #6: Egg Yolk Stuffed Ravioli

From Pasta Social club

I used to have this every time I was in Barolo. I have never had it anywhere else and I couldn’t figure out how you can cook pasta with an egg yolk inside without cooking the egg yolk. These guys seem to have it figured out but if the yolk does get cooked when you try it go ahead and separate the egg yolk before it goes in the pasta and freeze it. Thus it will get hot but not cook while the pasta gets a nice soft maybe a little bit beyond al dente texture

21/4 cups all purpose flour
3 whole eggs
7 egg yolks, divided
1 bunch asparagus, sliced into 1/2 inch pieces on the diagonal
8 ounces whole milk ricotta
1/4 cup finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano
1 large lemon
5 tablespoons salted butter
Kosher salt
cracked black pepper

Step 1

Gradually combine flour with the whole eggs and one yolk to form the fresh pasta dough–this can be done manually using the “well” method, in a stand mixer with a dough hook, or in a food processor. Once the dough begins to come together and all of the egg is coated in flour, knead for about 10 minutes until very smooth and firm, then form into a ball and set aside to rest for 30 minutes to an hour, tightly wrapped. If the dough feels too dry, add very small increments of water with your fingertips to achieve the desired consistency (it should not be sticky or flaky).

Step 2

For the filling, bring lightly salted water to a boil in a medium pot. Blanch the asparagus until bright green and al dente, about 30 seconds to 1 minute. Immediately drain and run under cold water, or shock in an ice bath to stop the cooking. Reserve ½ cup of asparagus for garnish, and coarsely blend the remaining 1½ cups with the ricotta, Parmesan, a squeeze of lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste. Transfer the filling into a piping bag (optional; you can leave it in a bowl) and let it set up in the refrigerator for at least 15 minutes.

Step 3

Roll about a quarter of the pasta dough to one setting thicker than usual for filled pasta to prevent leakage (this was setting 5 on my Marcato hand-crank machine; also note this will increase cooking time). Lightly flour the bottom of the sheet and cut it in half.

Step 4

Using a 3½-inch cookie cutter, lightly mark the area for the raviolo at the end of one half of the sheet. Pipe or spoon a nest of filling in a circle about ½ inch inside the cookie cutter outline.

Step 5

Very carefully transfer the egg yolk to the center of the filling nest. Repeat this process with the remaining area of the pasta sheet (it’s okay if there’s only space for a couple of ravioli, they’re big!).

Step 6

Brush a small amount of water around the circumference of the ravioli. Carefully lay the other half of the pasta sheet on top and press gently around each to seal. Go back through with the cookie cutter and cut out the ravioli, pinching the edges together to seal firmly, if needed. Gently transfer each raviolo to a lightly floured surface and repeat with the remaining dough and filling. Note: Ravioli all’uovo are incredibly decadent and one or two per person is usually plenty. I used some of my remaining dough and filling to make regular ravioli so nothing went to waste.

Step 7

To finish the dish, bring a medium pot of well-salted water to a gentle boil. Cut the remaining asparagus pieces in half to create thin diamonds, then melt a few tablespoons of salted butter in a saute pan over low heat. Once the water is boiling, very carefully (using a slotted spoon may help) lower ravioli into the water and cook 2-3 minutes, until pasta feels pliable but not firm to the touch. Do not overcrowd the pot; you may need to cook them in two batches. While the ravioli cook, add the asparagus to the butter with a sprinkle of kosher salt, pepper, and a squeeze of lemon juice and stir gently to combine. Remove from heat. Transfer ravioli directly to a plate and top with lemon butter and asparagus. Serve immediately and break into that yolk!


Here’s a real interesting Italian white made by Cloistered nuns outside of Rome.

Monday Metal Moment: “Blackout”

MONDAY METAL MOMENT

The Scorpions – “Blackout”

It’s another one from the amazing class of ’82. My friends and I covered it when we were about 14. This track avoids pervy lyrics that embarrassed the shit out of me in their later big hits of the hair metal 80s and their Eddie Van Halen style new (ish) guitar player Mattias Jab is in perfect balance with the moustached classic rock style of Rudy Schenker.

LISTEN HERE

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